毋庸置疑，巴黎时装周作为一年二次的服装盛典，可谓是闻名全球，带来犹如古希腊万神殿般的设计巨作。每年的发布会现场都会引起一场大轰动。
要知道，巴黎高定时装一向以其华丽宫廷风格享誉全球，受到全球时尚界人士的追捧，原汁原味的法式高定服装向来只是少数几家具有历史传承的高定时装屋的专属，然而在2017年7月巴黎时装周上，却迎来了大变革。一些小众品牌可谓是初生牛犊不怕虎，以新锐者的姿态出现在今年的巴黎时装周上，希望能在高定时装界占据一席之地。
在本次巴黎时装周中，巴黎高级时装公会首次向一波新锐高级时装设计师递出了橄榄枝，邀请他们以客座成员的身份登上本次巴黎时装周舞台，可谓是史无前例，大开先河之举。 要知道，作为巴黎时装周中的顶级品牌，例如 Dior 和Chanel向来时装周上的焦点，此番高级时装设计界奇才Rodarte 和 Proenza Schouler 携各自的服装系列霸气登场此次的巴黎时装周，他们的服装系列深受巴黎世家创始人Cristobal Balenciaga和CoCo Chanel这二位殿堂级设计师影响。
一时之间，引起了时尚圈业内人士和圈外人士的骚动，时尚先锋人士对于此番巴黎时装工会邀请新一波新锐高定设计师的举措表示举双手支持，他们认为此番举措将会在高定时装界中引入一股清流，注入新的活力。可以负责任的说，此番巴黎时装工会的这番大动作可谓是明智之至，时尚产业业内和圈外人士纷纷表示这一举措将势必对未来的时尚圈造成的深远的影响。在当今时尚圈中，老牌法国高定时装屋拥有不可撼动的地位，这一点显然是毋庸置疑的。要知道，这次的时尚发布会上一共会有100个品牌参加，其中有15个新锐品牌将首次亮相巴黎时装周，为本次的盛会注入一丝新的活力。说到底，千变万化的服装风格正是出自于这些个高级时装设计师之手，不知这场盛会将会向世人展示何种法兰西的时尚风情呢？就让我们一起拭目以待吧！
让我们一起看看此番首次亮相巴黎时装周上的三个时装品牌。不知他们将带给我们带来何种别样的惊喜呢？一起来浏览下吧。
1
Rotarde
本次发布会上，Rotarde的设计师把花冠带入现场，秀场中弥漫着浓浓的节日般喜气洋洋的气氛。Rotarde首次推出的高级定制服装系列令人印象深刻，把优雅的美学色彩融入其中。该系列象征着设计师向Robert Altman的力作«三个女人»致敬，洋溢着一丝着意象派诗歌的色彩。模特们头戴花冠，完美地演绎了Rotarde的薄纱礼服裙，充满着法式花园的气息。那件缀以犹如珍珠般星星点点的花朵的晚礼服裙，拥有3D立体视觉感，展现了一派浓浓的夏日气息。在礼服裙的色调上，设计师特意选用了鲜艳的色彩，让人眼前为之一亮。Rotarde高级时装屋的设计师们运用了丰富的材质，例如鸵鸟皮和七彩珠，为本次的高级定制服饰系列增添一抹独特的光彩，可谓是匠心独具。Rotarde高级时装屋的标志性设计风格就是凸显出织物原来的质感，整体呈现出柔和的风格，毕竟此次巴黎时装周是他家的首秀，稳扎稳打才有胜算。要知道，如今这个年代单单靠博眼球的设计也就只能昙花一现罢了。
2
Proenza Schouler
告别纽约大都市感的亮色系， Proenza Schouler 此番登上巴黎时装周这个大舞台，作为新锐时装屋的代表之一，可谓是风头正劲。作为高定服饰的先锋代表的时装屋，很多时尚圈人士预测Proenza Schouler时装屋的所带来的风尚将会大行其道。毋庸置疑，该时装屋将在法国时尚界掀起一股新潮流。Proenza Schouler推出的首个高定服装系列，设计师运用褶裥，褶边和大量的垂褶工艺，堪称是一场充满着法式华丽风格的发布会，令人眼花缭乱，目不暇接。展现出一种迷离的法式性感，若隐若现，引人入胜。设计师采用单色调，推出一系列经典的晚宴礼服，服装的剪裁显得利落感十足，这一切的一切都是凸显出Proenza Schouler的匠心独具，强调了服装的整体比例和外在廓形。其招摇的服饰廓形，堪称人见人爱，花见花开，简直就是大写的服气。
3
A.F. Vandevorst
A.F. Vandevorst是由来自荷兰的时装设计师所创立的品牌，此番携新的高定服饰系列霸气登上巴黎时装周秀场，可谓是锋芒毕露。本次A.F. Vandevorst 所推出的新系列大大颠覆了我们对于时下的成衣轮廓的理解。其发布会上展示的系列服饰瞬间引发全场的轰动，甚至于有些好事者对他们家的服饰廓形嗤之以鼻，认为他家的服饰与巴黎人一贯喜爱的奢华风格感格格不入。解构主义已经成为了本次巴黎时装周一大趋势之一，毕业于安特卫普皇家艺术学院的设计师把淡粉色和花草图案融入系列中，还在该系列中加入令人匪夷所思的垃圾袋材质，加入做旧感的动物图案印花，其特立独行的风格着实令人感到错愕不已，折射出一种对于时下服饰中大走奢华风的反讽，展现出一派反乌邦托形象的另类风尚，堪称独树一帜，令人大开眼界有木有。
以下为
Blood, sweat & tears - the controversial fate of couture
A bi-annual spectacle of savoir-faire passed down from the pantheon of great design, Paris Couture Week has always been the proverbial ripple that starts the storm. Preserving the grand tradition of high fashion under the domed ceiling of the Grand Palais as the rest of the sartorial world continues to turn, the origin of couture has become a closely guarded secret entrusted to only a few historic fashion houses- until July 2017, when a small band of interlopers arrived to shake up that status quo.
Arriving on the couture calendar for the first time in history, Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode invited a small set of prêt à porter designers to join the vertiginous new heights of haute couture as guest members for this year's AW17 show. A monumental move that crossed swords with conventional names like Dior and Chanel, wunderkinds Rodarte and Proenza Schouler stormed the stage with collections inspired by Cristobal and Coco before them.
Leaving insiders and onlookers in a state of perennial pandemonium, the front row was left agog with these new additions to Paris’s notoriously small bouquet of bespoke couturiers. A move that questions the federation’s focus on the future of couture, no one can deny the importance of these fashion elite, but with only 15 labels left on its roster of 100, maybe a more poetic - and less prosaic attitude to style can ensure its legacy. After all, if fashion be the food of love, play on…
We took a look at the three design houses making a difference at Paris Couture week to find out more.
1
Rotarde
Proving that flower crowns were born on the runway – not on the festival ground, Rotarde encapsulated an ethereal aesthetic with their debut couture collection. An impressionistic ode to Robert Altman’s 3 Women, Rodarte’s French garden was the perfect setting for their collection of cinematic tulle dresses, pearl-pierced outerwear and 3D blooms in an endless summer palette of spring pastels and vivid high saturated hues. Embellished with haberdasher’s top drawer favourites that ranged from ostrich feathers to caviar beads, Rodarte’s signature rough and smooth sense of style wasn’t lost in the anxiety of their first couture show, with perishable baby’s breath headpieces contrasted against easy rider biker boots and heavy metal hardware.
2
Proenza Schouler
Bidding a fond farewell to the bright lights of NYC, Proenza Schouler is one of many main stage brands bucking the trend to show at Paris Couture Week. Developing a high profile as prêt à porter vanguards, many wondered if their en vogue status would translate to an infamously discerning French audience. The answer was a resounding yes. Ticking every high fashion box with pleats, ruffles and draping galore, their first collection across the pond was a shining example of French-style savoir-faire, using all the tools at their disposal to create a collection that epitomised boudoir allure with a sexy sense of undressed edge. Built on a monochromatic palette, cocktail hour classics and sharp tailoring were given an iconic Proenza Schouler twist with compelling proportions and form flattering silhouettes in high supply.
3
A.F. Vandevorst
The sting in the fashion world’s tail hit the Dutch designers hard at A.F Vandervorst. Showing a collection of ‘upgraded’ ready to wear silhouettes, their inaugural show in Paris exemplified the harsh critique couturiers endure from their demanding 5-figure clientele. Deconstructing the beautiful accuracy of couture week, the Antwerp-based brand muddied the placid waters of pastel pinks and floral blooms with imported garbage bags, wonky habits and faded animal-print jacquards that rebelled against perfection, offering a dystopian portrait for the fate of fashion’s most sacred event.
