【潮滚潮流】从街头休闲到潮流大牌——Supreme的前世今生

  1994年,滑板少年们一改之前的街头风格,转而青睐一种更酷的街头潮牌,这就是Supreme,一个致力于把休闲服装做到极致的品牌。

在此之前,Supreme还是休斯敦索和区的一个地下社团,仅仅在设计师圈子、异见分子和街头流浪汉之间流行。但是仿佛就在不经意间,Supremme成为了都市反叛思潮的标志和主流的表达方式,这一切都是因为时尚界里的一次颠覆性品牌合作——

Louis Vuitton x Supreme

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  Supreme一直游离于传统的亚文化之外,是一个典型的私人俱乐部气质的品牌:低调,安静又自信,安于现状。很少在媒体露面的Supreme品牌创始人James Jebbia并不企图成为水泥丛林的新霸主,不过他至少还是很乐意有这个头衔的吧。Supreme是一个可以像美酒佳酿或者精美艺术品来销售的高级品牌,正如它的合作品牌,成为红毯新宠势不可挡。

  

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  神秘的字母图案组合在今年的男装周占据了各大媒体的头条,LV和Supreme的合作在巴黎时装周大出风头。这让人不禁回想起Adidas和Run D.M.C的合作完美统一了两种迥异的时尚风格。针对纽约本土品牌在时尚界影响力越来越大的现象,Louis Vuitton首席执行官Michael Burke对搭上Supreme品牌的便车来拓展消费者市场有很大的兴趣。他表示:”这次合作花了一年的时间。大家都为此感到兴奋不已。当今社会人们关心的事永远都是新鲜,新鲜和新鲜,能够为时尚界投入一些崭新的东西何乐不为呢。Chapman兄弟的春夏季款已经售罄了。我就是想要做让消费者激动并且让我自己欣赏的东西”。(摘自《Vogue》)

  

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  Supreme有顶级的样式制作工艺却不依赖这个优势, 它植根于时代文化思潮,推崇原创,从滑板电影Dogtown-era(道格镇岁月)和80年代的hip-hop汲取创作灵感。

  通过借鉴Shawn Stussy 和Nigo等设计教父的服装风格,Supreme出品的高级原创风格介于街头休闲和高级奢侈时装之间,使得这个来自纽约的国际品牌在同时代的竞争对手中独树一帜。

  所有限量版的东西,无论是一块有浮雕图案的砖头,还是难得一见的据说值五万美金的F*ck Em劳力士手表,都可以卖出去。Jebbia深谙弱肉强食的丛林法则,他的很多对手都已经成为了历史。如他所说,Supreme“需要够酷才能活下去”。(摘自《Times》)

  

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  对于这次时装秀的合作能否帮助Supreme实现少见的从休闲服装到时装的华丽转身,我们不得而知。可以期待的是已经身处滑板休闲服装品牌荣誉殿堂的Supreme在自己的主场完胜Louis Vuitton。

  

  

  以下为

  英语原文

  Street to Chic —— Supreme and the extreme streetwear buzz

  In 1994, skaters veered off the street and into a new temple of kerbside cool. The name was Supreme, and the aim was to take streetwear to the extremes.

A secret society born in the streets of SoHo, Supreme has long been confined to an in-crowd of designers, dissidents and street rats eager to rage against the machine, but in one imperceptible shift, Supreme became the new semaphore for inner city subversion, dominating the narrative on urban authenticity with a collaboration that has caused serious sartorial damage ——

Louis Vuitton x Supreme

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  Working outside the confines of traditional subculture, Supreme has all the markings of a private members’ club. Unassuming, quietly confident and unfazed by the status quo, the brand’s press-shy founder, James Jebbia didn’t set out to become the concrete jungle’s new king, but he’ll happily take the title, anyway. A brand that is traded like vintage wine and collected as fine art, Supreme is fast becoming an unstoppable force with the same red carpet exposure as its new couturier collaborators.

  

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  An enigmatic monogram that headlined this year’s menswear week, LV x Supreme overshadowed Paris Fashion Week with a buzz reminiscent of Adidas’s collaboration with Run D.M.C - never have both sides of the fashion coin been so in tune to the same aesthetic. Pinpointing the rising influence of the NYC brand in the wider fashion climate, Michael Burke, the CEO of Louis Vuitton was all too keen to jump on the Supreme bandwagon, reaching out to the illusive owner. He said:”This has taken about a year to get together. And everyone’s thrilled about it. In this world where everyone wants the new, new, new, it’s nice to be able to throw in something that’s completely fresh. Like the Chapman brothers pieces for Spring/Summer—that’s selling out completely. All I’m trying to do is create customer excitement and create things that I enjoy.”(Source, Vogue)

  

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  Mastering the art of look but don’t touch, Supreme’s roots dig deep into the original source of cultural zeitgeist. Bred on a diet of Dogtown-era skate films and 80s hip-hop, the NYC-born, internationally-based clothing company has surpassed all of its contemporaries, borrowing from the godfather’s of alternative apparel like Shawn Stussy and Nigo to create the ultimate genesis between street level style and high luxury allure. Selling everything from a limited edition embossed brick to a rare F*ck Em Rolex rumoured to have sold for over $50, 000, Jebbia understands the eat or be eaten mentality that has seen so many of its competitors fade into the history books, Supreme, as he put it, “needs to be cool to survive” (Source, NYTimes).

  

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  Whether this latest catwalk collaboration will ensure its fate as one of the rare street to chic crossovers is anyone’s guess, what we can bank on though, is its ensured place in the streetwear hall of fame as the skate brand that beat Louis Vuitton at its own game.

  

  

  

声明:本文由入驻搜狐公众平台的作者撰写,除搜狐官方账号外,观点仅代表作者本人,不代表搜狐立场。
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